recovery days

There is a slightly cool breeze blowing on my face. I can see the sea through the dusty, thick, plastic panels of the restaurant in front of me and there are  a couple of dogs hanging out on the beach. I counted nearly 30 yesterday, on the beach. They look ok, they look happy, but I’m sure  they’re pretty hungry.

I’m still in India for a couple more days. I wasn’t planning on another post, but today I went for a jog on the beach (yay!), and I started writing it in my mind, so here we are again. I almost feel like a different person after the run. I could feel the weariness starting to leave my body as I moved forward. It is a 20 minute there-and-back jog, the area in which I am staying. I did two laps with a couple of short sprints in the mix. Feeling satisfactorily tired after, (this being the first actual exercise I have done since being here) I dropped my kikoi and plunged into the cool sea. I ran in my cozzie which lucky for me was enough support as I am certainly not togged up for a run here. The sea is just divine. I am using that word on purpose! It is the perfect temperature, and the waves are gentle and at that time I had the whole ocean to myself. Although not early, around 8.30, there is very little early morning activity here in India. Not to say people don’t rise early, as they do, but the shops don’t open before 9. It is a late night affair here…shopping goes on til 9pm. It must be because of the heat.

Anyway, the point of so much writing about running and stuff is it just highlighted to me the value it has in my life. I feel relaxed, awake and peaceful right now, as I wait for my breakfast. Perhaps it also has something to do with my location (Palolem beach, south Goa). I guess I have to pass some credit here as it’s really quite lovely. And maybe enough time has passed to recover or recuperate from this recent experience. Maybe it all happened at the right time – I arrived here yesterday and this has been the first time I have had the opportunity to run as I don’t have shoes for it and this beach is perfect. I feel myself recovered, and going for a jog was the expression of that.

I would also be happy to leave now, as I would rather spend the extra time visiting with my 101 year old Supergran and my sisters and nephews back in SA, but that is not how it is, and that is also fine. I have another two nights here.

I came up on the overnight train from Cochin, in the sleeper class carriage. I love it. A 15 hour journey starting at 8pm. Falling asleep to the sound of the train moving along the tracks is a special thing. Perhaps there is a childhood memory in there somewhere, but there is a security and comfort in it, somehow. Justine had left a couple of days before me as her flight was earlier. We spent about 5 or so days together, relaxing and wondering around and shopping and sleeping and just enjoying some unpressurised time together. She is an old friend, and lives now  in Hong Kong, and it was through her that I came in the first place.

I am just interrupting this with the arrival of my fruit salad – fresh banana, papaya, watermelon, apple and pineapple. It is worth the mention 🙂

One evening, Justine and I went on the ferry across to the mainland. We were staying in Fort Cochin, which is the quaint older area, where the big fishing nets are, and more of the tourist spot. Cochin is a large city, local name Ernakulam and it is divided into areas around where the rivers meet the sea, hence the need for ferry crossing from one area to the next. It is about a 17 minute crossing to the mainland from Fort Cochin. It is nothing  like I imagined. Across the river from Fort Cochin is a huge oil refinery, adding a different edge to the horizon line.

Anyway, Justine had read a review online from a blogger about this  restaurant in the city, so we decided to go there for dinner. But it is not for the restaurant that I am mentioning  this. We had a good meal, and were walking back to the ferry at our leisure, when we passed some kind of event that was happening. Bright lights, music, and a giant toy like gorilla beating a drum in a regular fashion, as well as a huge funny looking lion, where enough to catch our attention. People were buying tickets and going in, but we couldn’t work out what it was by looking from the outside. So we just had to satisfy out curiosity. In we went, 30 rupees a head (a whole R6). It was a pet trade show. But also, a bit of homeware and clothing, as well as the odd bit of food. Well, it would NEVER pass any standards in any country I have been for this type of thing. Grubby, messy, dirty carpets laid over a floor that was I don’t know  what underneath because it kept moving when you stepped on it. There was one way in and you had to keep moving forward. Fish, birds, ranging from chickens, bugies, parrots, emu, pigeons, weird stuff. A cow, dogs and cats. Various plants. A bit smelly as you can imagine. Who knows how  well the animals were cared for. They looked ok I guess, but it could have been a lot better. We stayed there a bit and found a clothing seller with some beautiful garments so we spent some time with her, and then moved to leave quickly as I had left my kikoi in the restaurant, and we were getting close to 9.30 when the last ferry ride was, although I didn’t know this. Amazingly, we got a rickshaw back to the restaurant, where my kikoi was still hanging over the chair, and we drove down to the ferry and literally bought a ticket, ran onto it and off it went. I couldn’t believe it! Brilliant timing by default.

The day Justine left, there was a tragic accident. Shortly before docking, a boat crashed into a ferry, and broke in half. There were 8 deaths, and many people went to hospital. This apparently is the first time it has happened. It was something about the pull of the currents, and the set routes the boats take, where the skipper hasn’t control of the steering, which made it unavoidable. I don’t  understanding  fully though. It hit the headlines as breaking news, and hundreds of people gathered to watch the lifting of the boats with cranes and a jcb. I did too. I couldn’t help myself, and I was intrigued by the way Indians handle a crisis. It looked like their were some professionals doing it, but there were ordinary people involved in helping, and everybody was watching. There is a huge unifying that happens. People become as one. Is it because there are so many people here, and that is the only way it can work? I don’t know. The following day many shops were closed in respect to the lost people, of which some were children.

But now I don’t want to end this on a sad note. There is also more I want to write, but I have noticed my posts getting longer and longer so that’s not too good. Better divisions need to happen. I formed a post in my mind this morning while doing what not, and I haven’t even ventured onto those thoughts. Ah well, perhaps I should do a bit more travelling and I can get round to them 🙂 But until then, I am thinking about renting a scooter today, but although I can now drive a three wheeler with sufficient competency, the first and only time I tried a motorbike, I proceeded to drive straight into a thorn bush in a matter of seconds, so I will have to psyche up for this one !!

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the final stretch

We have finished. A day later than the official cut off time, so yesterday afternoon we drove into Fort Cochin after 17 days, driving 4030 km across India. What a ride. I was too pooped to write, and the last few days have been hard, hence the late update. Today I am doing as little as possible. I’ve just woken up after a late morning  sleep, so a good time to give the run down. We are staying in a gorgeous 500 year old house that was apparently lived in by Vasco De Gama during his time here with the spice trading and opening it up to the world.

So…where I left off last time I remember was at the bajaj garage with our hopes of making  it to Pondicherry by the evening. So much for that one. We spent 5 hours there, just to have the gasket head replaced. We were   being told continually that it will be an hour, then another hour etc until 2 pm when we left the place. It was frustrating because the problem wasn’t big, but initially we were told they had the part, and only later, that they didn’t have it and needed to get it from somewhere else. It was very hot and the area was uninteresting, and there was no where close by to buy water. Moira was  suffering a bit with heat stroke, we think, so all in all it was a long 5 hours.

So on the road again, the ricky sounded like a dream, but it only lasted about an hour or so before we heard the beginnings of the now familiar sounding noise. But we carried on and managed to get to a coastal town around 100 odd km’s north of Pondicherry, called Mamallapuram. (Believe me, the length and awkwardness of this town’s name is mild compared to some…also making asking for directions difficult because we don’t pronounce the names properly). This was in fact my favourite town I think. A gorgeous little fishing village, brightly coloured houses nestled in small narrow streets, with a great beach and lots of restaurants along the beach front. We were exhausted when we arrived at some point in the evening. The following morning, at about 6am, when we were originally planning to head off again, we decided to take it easy that morning and leave later when we were ready. This was a good decision. The two other girls lay down to sleep again, but I went for a long walk on the beach. I was pretty desperate to stretch my legs properly. Early morning was good because it wasn’t too hot, but I was too tired to go for a run. I also had a dip in the sea and a wonder around the town. It was great – just what I needed at that time. We met up for breakfast, which, although was beautiful being right on the sea front, the quality of the food in restaurants catering for western style eating is often not as good as local. Anyway, by the time we left in the late morning, we were far more ready to continue than if we had left first thing. Rest is essential in the mix.

We drove down to Pondicherry, but stopped there only for a short time and a bit of lunch at a restaurant in the French corner. It was lovely there, but we wanted to move on. We were now turning west, off the motorway (thank goodness and finally) and inland back to smaller roads and towns as we made our way towards Cochin.

It is noticeably more developed and affluent in the south. The road conditions are also better, so driving is generally faster and quicker.We spent the next night in a town called Chidambaram, were we encountered a beautiful and huge temple, the Nataraja, dedicated to Shiva. We were allowed in, and walked around it, while devotees and priest were praying and making offerings. I felt quite moved for some reason. I think it was a combination of being really tired and expanded from my own experience, and therefore a bit vulnerable, and the energy in the place, and seeing the devotion and pleasure serving and praying in this temple gives to the people there.

Our daily mileage inland was thankfully reduced as we neared out destination. We decided to make a slight detour on our last night, as there was a place in the mountains about 50 km’s off route that sounded too good to miss, so we carried on further. What we didn’t register, was the altitude and amount of climbing we needed to do in our now very tired sounding rickshaw. So the mountain started just as we were loosing light. It was quite gorgeous, and very different to the landscape with which we were familiar. On and on we climbed, till about 4 hours later and 2000 meters higher, we arrived at Kodaikanal, a retreat like town in the mountains, around a lake. Stunning. We collapsed into bed. Thankfully the rickshaw didn’t die on us, but it was hard going. Second gear up most of the way.

We left the beautiful town the morning of the 20th, with the intention of driving to Cochin by the late afternoon . We should have made  it, but somehow or other we encountered another mountain range we had  to climb over, that wasn’t evident on the maps. This was even higher than before. We wound our way up and it just went on forever. At some point we had to rest the ricky, which we did, but then she wouldn’t do a hill start. She couldn’t manage. Oh dear. So we ended up driving down hill to get her going, then doing a little turn around and then keep driving up. Justine was driving, and Moira and I had to run up along side her and leap in while still in motion, one at a time so she wouldn’t stall. It was hilarious, and it worked.

We ended up driving through the most gorgeous tea country, up and over mountains and around and through. Severe hairpin turns , with us getting stuck on one because we ran out of petrol. Rolling her back a bit and filling her up and then doing the down hill starting again, got her going. Such fun – I loved running and diving into her while moving. I had been wanting to do that, but not for this reason!

So we wound our way through the mountains again, but realised we were going too slowly to make it by the time we wanted. The party was on and we planned to drive straight there, and sleep at that location rather than going into town first. But then she died completely on us. About 9pm we finished, with still another 70 k’s to go. We were helped again by a local man and his young wife and 9 month old baby, who very generously put us up in their living room for the night. I am still astounded by the willingness of people we have met here, for nothing in return. We have been fortunate to have some African style jewellery that a friend of Moiras made us, to be able to offer a gift, but money has not been accepted in these occasions.

The next day Vishna arranged a mechanic from a town 8km’s away to look at the rickshaw. What it turned out to be, was a thread had been caught in the gasket head and had melted and somehow caused all the problems we were still having. So easy to fix, and she was a dream to drive after that 🙂

We purred into Cochin after a leisurely drive down, feeling so grateful and happy about how  it all turned out. Although we missed the party, which would have been great fun to go to, we had quite an adventure in the mountains over the last few days which was priceless.

We have held onto the ricky today, and will do our final delivery later this arvie, where apparently we have also been awarded the prize for the most money raised for the Coolearth charity. That’s great !

This has been a wild adventure, I am so glad to have partaken in it. Right now I am going to rest for a few days, but I have another 10 or so in this fascinating country, and I am still deciding how I want to spend the rest of it. So long 🙂

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motorway driving

Early morning on the 17th. Today we are taking the chariot to another bajaj mechanic here in Nellore, and they don’t open before 9.30 or thereabouts, so we have the chance of a lie-in. Welcome. We have had a few very long, difficult days driving south down the motorway. The road has certainly  been good on the whole – much more so than what we experienced in the north, but it’s a different kind of tiring driving long straight stretches. Many things have changed, which has been quite interesting to notice.

Firstly the food. We were eating a bit  if puri which is a kind  of fried flat bread, which comes  with a veg dish that  you scoop it into. This is breakfast. Now we are seeing  more southern foods like Mysore bond , which is a different type of dough, deep fried  in little round balls. These comes with different sauces in a way, like a white chutney, and a tomato kind of sauce. Justine has been interested in finding  out what these foods are made  up of, so I am getting a bit of info this way, otherwise most of the time I don’t really know what I’m eating, I just eat it. I rather  like that though – going into a place and ordering rice, which I think is all you need to say and then you get a meal of rice and different veg. It is also called thuli, although I think saying rice  is sufficient. Or you say chiapatti, and you get the flat bread but it comes with  veg saucy mix of sorts. I have been eating with my hand a fair bit of  the time (right hand as the left hand is dirty here), which I also enjoy. I learnt how to do that when I was in Nepal.

The vegetation has recent changed – yesterday in fact. We are about 200 k’s from Chennai. It became noticeably more scrubby and much drier. There are still palm trees around, but the thick, lush, tropical vegetation of earlier has stopped.

It seems more developed further south. The buildings are different, the roads better, even the driving is slightly less intense, but that might just be because we are predominantly on the highway, and the conditions are easier. The highway is not particularly  busy either. But as soon as we pass  through towns of course that’s not the case anymore. It is fairly monotonous, and less interesting driving like this, but it seems that if we want to make  it to Cochin by the 20th, This is what we have to do. We have covered  nearly 400k’s a day the last three or so. Including a couple if breakdowns. Two days ago the engine cut out a couple of times because  the cap to the piston kept popping  off. We managed to push her to a petrol station which fortunately was near, and  the very helpful people there guided us to a mechanic in the next town, about 5 km’s away. We drove her there using duct tape to keep the cap on. There, the local mechanic fixed her up and wouldn’t take any money for it. Then yesterday, the gasket went. Or some part associated with it. It had broken and the noise was becoming a problem, and we were struggling to start her. We again were directed to a mechanic who mended it up for us taking about 2 hours. Someone went to buy a new one but couldn’t find one. They also would not take money for helping us. So on we drove, but the fix was temporary, and we need the new part, hence looking this morning for a Bajaj mechanic here in Nellore. The rickshaw is a Bajaj make, so best for us to find the right dealer. It has been difficult sometimes to get the parts. I’m not sure why though as you see the vehicles around, although more so in the bigger cities as they are not mad  for distance driving.

So we’ll see how we go today. We are heading past Chennai, to Pondecherry, which is an old French colonial village, which should  be a bit different. Hopefully the maintenance work won’t take all day so we can get on with the journey.

At the mechanics now…I was just thinking, if it wasn’t for the breakdowns we would never get a proper break!! Maybe just like our ricky, we also deal with a bit of wear and tear and need some R&R. So all together the repairs on the ricky are linked with our  own personal maintenance needs. I must also confess I have never washed my hair as frequently as I am on this trip!

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more pictures

Motorway driving

Motorway driving

Getting the ricky onto a truck

Getting the ricky onto a truck

Filling up the tank

Filling up the tank

Temple in old town Bhubaneswar

Temple in old town Bhubaneswar

A view of Chillika Lake

A view of Chillika Lake

Chai stop

Chai stop

A pilgrim. We encountered loads in some towns walking over 100 km, a religious festival.

A pilgrim. We encountered loads in some towns walking over 100 km, a religious festival.

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resting day

Just over two years ago I had a bit of a focus shift. I guess it started with the long hike. The focal shift was from a concentration on more spiritual aspects of life, to an interest in a more tangible, physical one. Taking more care and interest in my physical being, and in the world around  me. As a result, I feel I have learnt how to take care of myself, to respect my needs and take heed of them. Particularly when I am pushing myself, in order to be able  to last  longer and go further, without fading or loosing interest. I have  learnt it through distance hiking, as well as endurance running. Perhaps what I have learnt is to stop and rest and regroup, before it is too late, and you are already too depleted because  you couldn’t stop yourself before.

This little rickshaw adventure is also an example, in a way. It’s long, sometimes uncomfortable hours. We are all exhausted and  really dirty at the end of each day. It’s tiring. For me, what is important when we get to our accommodation, is a shower, a rest and clothes washing, and if possible, a bit of blogging. The last couple of days I have been too exhausted to do my washing.

I am sitting in my room now, having caught up with the washing, with the added bonus of a line strung across the room, giving me extra space to hang because  I have now washed practically everything I brought!

We are taking a day off…or rather an afternoon. We are staying in Puri, which is about 50 k’s off the route. A delightful beach town filled with temples and a long stretch of beach. The beach actually reminds me of Durban- it’s got quite a strong backwash, and somehow looks similar as It’s just a long stretch down the coast.

It’s our first taste of the beach – we finally got here! Last night we stayed in the old town area of Bhubaneswar and had a bit of a lie in because  we needed to get to the mechanic for a final bit of work on our ricky and they only really start working at ten… ish. We had a wonder around the most beautiful ancient  temples this morning, before heading there. So we decided to take  the rest of the day off and head down to Puri for a bit of a break. We really are going to have  to gun it down the  motorway over the next few days. Seems like the road  is good, so we should be able to get some good miles in over a short time. So long as the chariot holds up. We have taken her to a few places to get sorted as the one didn’t have what we needed, so improvised until we got to a bigger place. We actually have had to hurl the ricky onto a truck, since I last  posted. That day we  thought would be an easy fix, turned out quite differently. They couldn’t get the part fast enough, so that was what we had to do cause we need to keep moving ! We got a truck ride about 50 k’s further south. The three of us in the  Rickshaw, on top of a truck, cruising down the  motorway…what a sight can you imagine! We have certainly had our share of surprised delight from a number  of locals!

The other funny thing is the photos – sometimes while driving, we see a car or motorbike pass and then slow down again when they realise what they have seen. Out come the cameras and  they drive along side and  take photos!! Haha ! Often some conversation occurs as we drive along side  by side  for a while…really great fun.

Anyway, getting going again took about 24hrs. But we still needed some stuff looked at. So all seems to be good now, although there is a rattle sound now which we can’t quit  locate. Don’t think it is anything serious, we just can’t work it out yet. I really hope we can get some un- interrupted miles In from tomorrow…we need  that now.

So I am going  to enjoy the rest of my afternoon off..We are meeting up in an hour or so to have a look at the  big temple here, and then maybe take a stroll on the beach before sitting down for dinner.. and maybe a beer 🙂 …not sure when I will have signal to post this, but hopefully sometime soon. Today is Thursday 13th, sleeping tonight in Puri, east coast India.

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Change of plans today. We are in a restaurant in Belda, waiting for our chariot to be repaired. The rain is bucketting down outside so the mechanics have gone inside to wait for  this to pass. We had finally hit the main highway connecting the north to the south along the far east side of the country, and were planning  on clocking many miles today as we are falling behind. How do people go so fast? This  main motorway will get us far as its pretty good.

I was driving along and then something changed and the ricky stopped working. Luckily it was easy to pull over, and  in no time  we had  the main highway safety vehicle pass us so we called  them over. A couple  of other people pulled  over  to have a look, and then they offered to tow us to a mechanic shop about 24 k’s away. I mean how fortunate is that? Some spring has dropped off or something to prevent it from starting. Apparently not a big job, so depending on the rain, we should be back on the  road pretty soon.

Yesterday we had out first flat tyre, quite early on in the morning. Also an easy fix – there is no jack though, you just have  to hold up the ricky so you can take off the flat and replace it. We drove along a little further and found a tyre shop on the side  of the road where the man helped us out very efficiently. And we were on our way again. We had such a beautiful days’ drive yesterday, through small towns and rice paddies. Great stops for food and chai. It was a very long day though – 15 hours. We were tired at the end and had  to drive further for accommodation. It can be tricky in the smaller places to find something, and the  bigger towns are further apart, and it takes a long time  to get somewhere.

In fact, you have no idea how long a distance will take, as the roads are completely unpredictable. 10 k’s can take an hour, no joke. A main road isn’t not always better, although often it is , but in parts it can be horrendous. Unbelievable the condition of some of these roads. Also, it’s bizarre how easy it is to get confused about where you are. Last night is a perfect  example. Eventually after not really knowing which route we took to where we ended  up sleeping, we  worked it out this morning. It must be what we worked out, but that would mean two turns off the road where we are absolutely sure we did not turn off once. Anyway, one  has  to let go of these confusions otherwise  you can drive yourself mad trying to understand what’s going  on!!

When it comes to pulling off the road  to rest the  engine and have a break, we are like the most delectable honey to bees. We draw crowds. We are irresistible and  it is so funny and sweet, most of the time. People are so curious about  us and they just come  over and look, unashamedly staring. They are so happy to help. Sometimes, asking for directions draws a lengthy discussion around us. Who knows what is being said, as generally the town we are asking about  is the next one or maybe  the closest big town. It can be a bit overwhelming, and I must say I am very glad I’m not famous, I wouldn’t cope with it all the time.

We haven’t really seen other  teams apart from the first couple of days. People are choosing different routes too, and somehow they are moving faster than us, even with many breakdowns, as it sounds like that’s happening to some  teams. Our chariot has been holding  up really well, with a few hiccups now and again, one of course which is going  on now. We need  to catch up, but it is also a pity as it is so much nicer going on the small roads. It seems like some of the places we are passing through are not often visited by many tourists. There is less English spoken than there was  in Shillong, so we are just finding our way through.

Wi fi has almost been non-existent, so I suspect I might be posting a few times in one session. I am writing  off line, and then when I can get a signal, I will put them up. So today is the 11th , who knows when it’ll go up. Been trying to post this and it looks like we aren’t going anywhere today – still waiting for a part and its pouring again !!

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driving days

Five days into driving. We are staying tonight in Jangipur which is about 250 km’s north of Calcutta. Seems like we haven’t got that far actually, but we have also been taking some side roads which are slower, and just not rushing. The traffic and roads are very unpredictable so that also slows things down. We are going at a good pace, but it may be that we will need to speed things up a bit at some point if we are to make  it to the end by the 20th. We are at the back of the group, we think.

Today was really hectic with traffic. We got stuck in a jam for a while. It’s not the kind of traffic jam that everyone is familiar with, where your irritation increases the more  time you are in it. Of course, it wasn’t like we had to get to an appointment or something, but it’s just a different experience. Part of the jam was a train crossing. The roads are closed for a while before trains pass and there may have been a few too – I’ve seen three at one session. Anyway, nothing really happened after the trains passed, we didn’t move. We took the opportunity to rest the engine while we waited, and I found a little wood workshop on the side of  the road where the young guys working there invited me to sit on their bench, as I had  wondered in there. The one lad turned the fan onto me to blow. How very thoughtful. Maybe  he just saw how the heat was affecting me 🙂

We moved through inch by inch. Some men were directing the movement, and slowly it shifted. There was no anger, aggression, ill-will …anything like that. People just hung around and waited. One man on a truck called to me (I was the driver at this point, and trying to get back into the queue), “this is India – just go!” . Any which way, any how, whatever, anything goes. Really, that’s it. It’s amazing.

There is such a fluidity in the way things move. It’s all give and take, and everyone knows that and knows their place. I don’t know, maybe  by the end of the drive I’ll be cursing Indians for their lack of my kind if logic and structure, and that nothing makes sense. But right now, I am revelling in the difference and the gentleness of it all. This is just my feeling. It’s not that outside here is all gentle or anything cause it’s  pretty hectic and intense, but something underneath it is gentle to me. Perhaps it has something to do with acceptance and not fighting things. Now that I write that, although I am describing my thoughts and feelings about how India seems to me, those words can be equally used in a person and their movement through life over time. Things cross over and intersect, it’s good. No problem.

So what I want to clarify here with these  posts is that I am writing them when I can and also not in one session, but not posting at the time. The signal here is terrible and we just get something here and there if we are lucky. Wi fi is pretty elusive here and the mobile data we bought with our local SIM cards is not working all that reliably. Sounding familiar ?? So posts might not make sense  in time, but that’s why.

A few other details…it’s hot and humid. All day and at night, you must sleep with a fan on. Hopefully the electricity holds. I’m not too keen on AC, because I end up freezing, but it is also a relief at times. When we walk out the hotel and load up the rickshaw, we sweat. First thing in the morning. Driving obviously gets the air going which is a huge relief. We have  been eating the most delicious bananas, pineapples and mangoes. Really divine…the food has been great. I am missing a bit of exercise though I must say. Looking forwards to going on a run when I get home ! I’m supposed to take a month off for an injury, so the  timing  is good. However, we do spend most of the day driving and sitting  in chai shops and tiny restaurants. We Crossed  the Ganges River today which was cool.  We are bypassing Culcutta tomorrow, but that is where we head.

Sitting  in my room now with the fan on, going to read a little then lights out for an early start tomorrow again. Night all 🙂

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